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"Hey! Don't Eat That!"

An electronic training collar makes it easy to teach your puppy to leave certain "nasty stuff" on the ground alone. These items can include fresh animal droppings, dead fish rotting on the bank, and numerous other temptations that a pup will eat or an older dog will roll in.

The youngster thinks they're just delightful, but you don't! Many of these things can be hazardous to a dog, since he can pick up parasites and disease, or even ingest a fish hook. And he's certainly not a pleasant puppy to be with after a session with them!

Electronic training collars give you a safe and humane way to cause your pup to associate immediate displeasure with these items. He won't associate a person with the correction, the way he would if you reprimanded him. (And reprimand may not be effective with a pup anyway.)

With an electronic training collar, he simply associates the correction with his own decision to sample the temptation. He learns that what he thought would be pleasant turned out to be unpleasant instead. He moves on to other puppy adventures without "sampling" that type of thing again.

If a pup's first few experiences with an item are mildly unpleasant, he'll generally leave it alone forever, so this is a good time to have an electronic training collar on a pup. And the smaller models make it possible to use an electronic training collar with the youngster.

First select an intensity level, as described with the products owner's manual. You should test your pup's sensitivity level before training, because you don't want to start with the wrong level. To test the pup, start with the lowest intensity the collar produces, and wait until he isn't paying any attention to you. Press the button and watch for a slight physical reaction from him, such as a quick movement of the head as though an insect you flew by his ear. If you don't see this reaction, increase the intensity level until you do. (If your unit has both "continuous" and "momentary" stimulation, it's best to use continuous for this test, but "momentary" for the actual corrections.)

Three things are necessary for success in correcting a dog for eating the wrong things. First, use the right timing. Press the button the moment the pup's mouth touches the temptation. If you press it before this moment, you don't give him a chance to decide on his own to leave it alone. (If he doesn't leave it right away, press the button a second time, and he'll usually notice.)

The second important thing is your own consistency. Catch him every time, especially when you first give the pup access to the tempting item. If you're not going to be able to pay attention to the pup at a particular time, keep him out of the situation where he might make the attempt.

Third, you need to use the right intensity. When it is low enough, the pup will probably try more than once to eat the thing. This is good, because only by making a couple of attempts does he make the specific association. Avoid starting with too high an intensity.

Don't assume the training "isn't working" just because the pup tries two or three times and you have to correct two or three times. After several experiences with the correction, he will start to go for the item, then change his mind and move away -- that's the signal you're looking for. If you're not seeing it after four or five corrections, only then should you increase your intensity level.

Should you have a concern regarding the health of your Beagle(s), you should contact your veterinarian. All information on this site is presented solely for educational and informational purposes and should not, at any time, be considered a substitute for seeking or receiving veterinary care for your Beagle(s).